Exploring the Heel of the Italian Boot

September 4th, 2009 | by Kimberly Sullivan 3 comments

If you are looking for a perfect family holiday, head south as far as you can on the Italian peninsula, to the point where the Ionian and Adriatic Seas meet.

This region, the “high heel” of the Italian boot, is Salento – the most beautiful area of Puglia. Here you will find an enchanting corner of Italy, a little too far off the well-beaten tourist path to be inundated with foreign tourists, yet undoubtedly a must-see region.

Admittedly, I get a bit bored at beach-only destinations, so for me Salento is the perfect combination of art and culture/sun and sand.

If you don’t like baroque, this might not be the destination for you. Baroque cities and churches abound in this southern destination. Our kids were sick to death of being dragged into “one more church”, but dangling the carrot of an afternoon and evening at the beach seemed to get them through it. And what beaches! Throw in great food and wine, virtually guaranteed sunshine and bills that won’t break the budget and you have the makings of a perfect holiday for the whole family.

Pick a beach, any beach

In Italian they say “l’imbarazzo della scelta”, meaning an embarrassingly wide range of choices – that’s the perfect way to describe the options available along two stunning Mediterranean coastlines.

The Ionian Sea offers mostly white or golden sandy beaches, while the Adriatic side offers predominantly rocky and dramatic coastlines. The locals take great pride in the fact that even the youngest children are able to manage diving off the scoglie (rocky shorelines). You can’t go wrong stopping off at the closest beach for a quick dip wherever you are exploring .

Some of our favorites are Punto della Suina, just outside Gallipoli – offering beautiful water, sandy beaches and a nice view of the town. To reach the lovely Porto Selvaggio, you must park the car and walk downhill through a forest path. It’s worth it! Your reward is a lovely cove, surrounded by Mediterranean pine forests where you can while away a fantastic afternoon lazing on the coast, listening the cicadas and swimming in the crystal-clear water.

There is only one small pebble beach allowing easy access for children and the rocks along the scoglie have many sea urchins, so children (and adults) should wear protective footwear or take care when placing their feet on the rocks. The sandy beaches south of Otranto are another lovely place to while away an afternoon.

Get lost in Gallipoli

The name dates back to that of the original ancient Greek settlement “Kalé polis”, or beautiful city. Millennia later, this still holds true. This charming walled city is really an island attached to the mainland by a 17th century bridge.

Lose yourself wandering its winding, picturesque streets. The facade of the Basilica of Sant’Agata, built in 1629, is a wonderful example of Lecce baroque. Other monuments of interest are the Greek Fountain and the imposing castle. And don’t miss the daily fish market, just underneath the bridge leading to the old town.

Although the most beautiful beaches are just outside the city limits, the Seno della Purita’ (”Breast of Purity”, the name is taken from a nearby church), within the walls, is a small, pleasant beach where you can take a swim during your visit. Wrap up your day with a dinner of freshly-caught seafood and a chilled local rosé, while sitting outdoors at one of the restaurants along the walls overlooking this harbour as night falls – certainly the perfect ending to an enjoyable day in Salento.

Enjoy the views in Santa Maria de Leuca

At the very tip of the heel is the charming town of Santa Maria de Leuca, famous for its lighthouse and its 18th century Basilica di Santa Maria de Finibus Terrae (St. Mary of the Ends of the Earth). The views are lovely from here – on clear days, you can see across the Adriatic Sea to the coast of Albania.

The basilica was built on the site of an ancient temple to Minerva, and at the spot where St. Peter was said to have arrived on the Italian peninsula. The town has lovely examples of 19th century holiday villas for the wealthy, constructed in the “eclectic” style known in the region. It is an enjoyable place to take a passeggiata and to swim where the waters of the Adriatic and Ionian Seas join.

Gaze in awe at Lecce

Were this small city in Tuscany, it would most likely be clogged continuously with tour buses. As it is, this architectural gem is far enough off the beaten tourist path to keep large crowds at bay. The 16th and 17th century architecture, so particular to this area, has its own special name taken from this city : barocco leccese (Lecce baroque).

Spend five minutes in Lecce, and you will understand why. The most striking example of barocco leccese is the Basilica of Santa Croce, with its whimsical and breathtaking facade. Walk around this lovely city and enjoy the cathedral, Palazzo vescovile and numerous other baroque churches in the changing light of day – the local stone used to construct these masterpieces changes dramatically with the sunlight.

Shiver in Otranto

I admit it. My sons love gory battle stories – the gorier the better – and when it involves Ottoman invasions, we know it will be a real hit. The famous “Sack of Otranto” of 1480 took place in this sleepy Adriatic seaside town, once an important outpost in the Byzantine Empire. Most of the population died in the siege. The Ottomans offered the remaining 800 townspeople the option of conversion in order to survive. Down to the last man, woman and child, they refused and the martyrs’ bones are still displayed in cases in the splendid Otranto cathedral.

As your children stare dumbfounded at the display, you will have time to admire the spectacular 12th century floor mosaic which occupies nearly the entire nave. Have your children pick out “Rex Arturis”, King Arthur, among the intricate designs. The walls along this picture-perfect town afford pleasant views over the sea and its winding streets are a treat to explore. Join the locals and take a swim just off the walls of the old town.

The fine print

To ensure a more enjoyable holiday – avoid the Salento in August. This is when almost all Italians are on holidays, every inch of coastline fills up and the charming towns feel more like Disney World, complete with crowds and long lines (and high-season prices). But if you can venture here in May, June, July or September, you are certain to be rewarded for your efforts.

The closest airport is Brindisi. Express trains (Eurostar) reach Lecce and while there is a network of regional buses and trains, you are advised to rent a car to explore the region most efficiently. Regarding driving – come armed with patience. Two well-marked roads go along the two coastlines; everything in between is, well, a bit confusing. Have a sense of humour when searching for road signs in the interior (often, inexplicably, hidden behind trees or buildings).

The good news is that you will have lots of interactions with the locals while asking for directions and your Italian is bound to improve, or, at the minimum, your hand-gesturing skills).

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3 Responses to “Exploring the Heel of the Italian Boot”

Marion on September 11th, 2009

Salento is so wonderful!!! This is one of my favorite places in Italy. Another family-friendly attraction in Puglia is the “Grotte di Castellana” (Grottoes of Castellana). And do not miss the lovely cities of Ostuni and Cisternino. They are really worth a visit! :)

Cheers from Rome!

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