Visiting Sonoma and California wine country with kids

Let’s play a word association game.  I’ll say a phrase, and you say the first thing that springs to mind.  Ready?

California wine country.

Did you say “family vacation”?  I’ll bet you a case of Chardonnay you didn’t.

But guess what?  If you know where to go, wine country can be a blast with kids.  It’s got great weather, great scenery, and lots to do.  It’s true: Napa is a pretty grown up destination.  Laid back Sonoma is another story.

Saddle up

Children as young as six can go horseback riding with Horse N’ Around Trail Rides at the Roche Carneros Estate Winery.  The 1 1/2 hour rides take you through a private valley of Chardonnay and Syrah vineyards and over hilltops with views of the San Pablo Bay.

We saw jackrabbits, egrets, and red-tailed hawks on our ride, and turkeys and coyotes aren’t uncommon either.  Horse N’ Around is an excellent outfit with gentle, healthy horses and professional guides with a real passion for what they do.  Tours are available by reservation seven days a week year round ($75 group, $100 private).

Go wine tasting (no, really)

Think you can’t go wine tasting with your kids?  Think again.  As long as you have a designated driver, Sonoma wineries have got you covered for child-friendly amenities. 

Cline Cellars tops our list with a bird zoo, fish ponds, and a pair of friendly miniature Sicilian donkeys.  The vibe here is fun and funny (“Be careful,” admonishes a sign near the fish pond, “Pirahnas in Pond”).  You can taste Zinfandel while your kids munch complimentary popcorn on the wide front porch.

Across the street at Jacuzzi Family Vineyards, your kids can get in on the tasting action by sampling various olive oils and (sometimes, if you’re lucky) chocolates.

The Larson Family Winery is another winner for families.  Picnic under trellises overlooking the bocce court and vineyards while your kids play with the owners’ three Labradors and make the aquaintance of Dolly the llama and some miniature goats.

Farther north, stop at Arrowood Vineyards and Winery which has a toy chest by the fireplace and offers juice boxes to kids.  Finish your day off at Benziger Family Winery in Glen Ellen, which thoughtfully provides a swing, caged peacocks, and a kid-friendly tram tour.  Their oak-shaded picnic area is the loveliest I’ve seen.

Hop on your bike

Though it’s not entirely car-free (you’ll need to stop and cross at intersections), the Sonoma Bike Trail is the closest thing to it in wine country.  Park your car at the Sebastiani Winery at 389 4th Street East, and ride about a mile east to Maxwell Farms Regional Park.  You’ll pass the Vallejo home, a small railroad depot, and end up in a modern city park.

At the end of your ride, consider pulling over at Maxwell Fun Center (19171 Sonoma Highway, next door to Lucky Supermarket in the Maxwell Village Shopping Center) where you can play 18 holes of miniature golf, drop a few quarters in the video arcade, and grab a snack.  There’s a big bike rack out front.

If you didn’t bring bikes, you can rent adult bikes, kid bikes (20″ and 24″ frames), trailers, and Trail-a-bikes at Sonoma Valley Bike Tours, just off the Plaza at 520 Broadway.

Splash off

No pool at your accommodations?  No problem.  Head up to Morton’s Warm Springs Resort in Glen Ellen.  The pools there are fed by a 94-degree spring, and stay comfortably warm no matter the weather.  It’s basic, but they have picnic areas, lockers and showers, and a snack bar.  Summer hours are Tuesday–Sunday, 10am-6pm, and admission is $8 for adults and $7 for kids (under-3s are free).

Where to eat

Assuming you haven’t picnicked yourself into a catatonic state, the best place to eat with kids in Sonoma is the Basque Boulangerie Cafe (460 1st Street East, on the Plaza).  The salads here are great, but people really line up for the sourdough bread.  Adults and kids alike will be relieved to see such stand-bys as Grilled Cheese, P.B. and J., and Le Hot Dog on the menu.

We also like Maya Restaurant for Mexican (on the corner of 1st and Napa Streets).  It’s not your standard Tex-Mex fare, but the carnitas, guacamole, and fish tacos are great.  If your kids balk at the foodie selections on the menu (and you balk at the prices), let them eat nachos!

Where to sleep

Our favorite place to stay in Sonoma is Cottage Sonoma, a charming two-bedroom house walking distance from the Plaza which has everything you need for a relaxing getaway.  Families will love the securely fenced backyard, jacuzzi, and comfy eat-in kitchen.

Another great place to stay with kids (especially on a budget) is the Best Western Sonoma Valley Inn.  For not very much money, you get a heated outdoor pool and jacuzzi, continental breakfast, and a patio area that is perfect for picnic lunches and dinners (there’s a Whole Foods just across the street).   Staff here is friendly and accommodating, and well-behaved pets are welcome.

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June 4th, 2009 | by Jamie Pearson 7 comments